"When in the course of pet-fish events", the biggie: Livestock. A large part of the fun and excitement of the marine aquarium hobby is the anticipation and "scavenger" (that's you) hunt for your new livestock. The "what" to get and even "how to select" actually should have been decided (as in, nothing's decided till it's done) way in advance of even acquiring the system and its components. Yes, in an ideal world, aquarists would/will know what sort of presentation and/or livestock they intend to house way before actually buying their tanks and support paraphernalia.

What about such issues as; "how big" a system? (Answer: As large as you can afford to maintain. Notice I didn't write "to purchase"; that's a minor matter comparatively). What shape? A heavy bias on more flat, "standard" formats over "show" profiles that are tall and narrow. Lighting? What will your organisms need/take? Substrate? Nitrate removal/reduction considerations? Foods, feeding, nutrition? And oh so much more need to be addressed and answered with confidence.

And as you're cogitating furiously, seeking and discovering what's available, possible and the paths you'll try out matching your "drygoods" purchases with the "live", what sorts of questions might you, should you explore concerning "what" species you'll place? Beyond these, what criteria can you apply to optimize your chances of securing the best/better specimens of the varieties of livestock you want? Unsurprisingly from the title of this piece, these are my answers.

Marine Livestock Species Selection: Determining "What" then "Which":

There are two issues to be addressed in figuring our what you'll be keeping in your marine system. First, the ideal of what is available and suitable for your particular set-up; secondly how to go about picking out the best of these species.

Discounting the possibility of "The Creature that Ate Brooklyn" deriving from your live sand and rock, the following issues must need be evaluated when considering potential fishes, invertebrates, algae and vascular plants: size (at purchase, growth, and ultimate potential), foods/feeding, compatibility (behavioral characteristics like territoriality) and anomalous losses issues. Even the issues of shipping problems and legal aspects should be of concern. Allow me to expand on these ideas and offer examples.

The Issue of Legality: Legal & Moral Concerns:

Some organisms are restricted in the trade (and others should be) as being considered overly exploited ( Hypsypops rubicunda , the garibaldi) or valuable to remove; such as the Hawaiian obligate cleaner wrasse , Labroides phthirophagus . All places in the world have their licensing, paperwork and taxes/fees as relates to capture, transport and import of wild stocks.

Bad Species: Poor Capture, Transport, or Adaptability Record: Mortuus Est:

One outright contraindicated behavior to avoid in livestock selection is death itself; some species, for whatever unknown reasons, don't generally live through the rigors of collection, holding and shipping. Both a "clean" list of desirable species and a "dirty" list of those to avoid run very long; an ongoing compilation is available on the net at http://www.execpc.com/~jkos/amda/ecolist/ecolist2.html ; some pleasing examples are (some butterflyfishes when caught and shipped large, the saddleback, Chaetodon ephippium , the teardrop, C. unimaculata . Others rarely live any length of time regardless of size; examples include pinnatus batfish, P. pinnatus and Moorish idols; , parrotfishes, even some surgeonfishes (family Acanthuridae)(clown tang, Acanthurus lineatus) these sorts of fishes have very low initial survival records, 90+ percent perishing within a few weeks.

And let's not forget the non-vertebrates; how long have you ever seen a flame scallop (actually a file shell , Lima scabra ), stay alive in captivity; or most gorgonians? (the sea fan, Gorgonia flabellum off Belize; purple sea plume, Pseudopterogorgia bipinnata in the Bahamas and in captivity) The latter are mainly a matter of improper handling from wild removal and transport; but, until or unless you can determine yours is really "still alive" I'd either hold off on trying them or utilize "the deposit game" detailed below.

Does the Species Eat Captive Foods?:

. Know that a species historical feeding record has little to do with the fact that it is being offered in the trade. There are organisms that have scarcely known to have eaten anything in captivity. Some examples are coral and other specialized-feeding butterflyfishes ( Chaetodon reticulatus , webbed b/f; C. ornatissimus , the ornate; and the exquisite, C. austriacus ); Moorish idols, the regal angel Pygoplites , ribbon moray eels, pinnatus batfish, Platax pinnatus ; the grunts called sweetlips, sub-family Plectorhynchinae ( P. gaterinus ); the notorious orange-spotted filefish ( Oxymonacanthus longirostris ); nudibranchs (the Spanish shawl, Flabellinopsis iodinea ) and many more common retail offerings are in league with these poor and specialized feeders; collectors and wholesalers should avoid them, but do not.

Chilly Willy:

A woeful mention of coldwater life placed in tropical aquarium waters. Catalina gobies ( Lythrypnus dalli ), leopard sharks ( Triakis semifasciatus ), Metridium and Tealia ( T. lofotensis off Baja) anemones and more are regularly offered as warm-water organisms; they are not; and will not live long in tropical tanks.

Toxic Life:

Most boxfishes and trunkfishes (Family Ostraciidae)( Lactoria cornuta ; female and male blue boxfish, Ostracion meleagris ), soapfishes (Family Grammistidae), many sea cucumbers (Class Holothuroidea)(the sea apple, Paracucumaria tricolor ) and more can toxify and kill off a sizable systems occupants, should they become "disturbed" or die and dissolve. On the other hand, I still endorse the sale of venomous fishes like the scorpaenids (lions, stonefish)(black Pterois volitans lionfish; bearded scorpionfish , Scorpaenopsis barbatus ; a leaf fish, Taenionotus triacanthus ), plotosid catfishes ( Plotosus lineatus ), and tangs and their relatives, the rabbitfishes (family Siganidae)( Naso lituratus ; the stellate rabbitfish, Siganus stellatus ); just be careful!). Personally, I do wish the trade would stop carrying the blue-ringed octopus ( Haplochalaena maculosa ) and the cone snails ( Conus ) that are deadly venomous to unwary and unaware humans.

Selecting Good Specimens:

After determining which species of what's available are compatible and desirable, what can you do to insure you're getting the "pick of the litter" in choosing through them at your dealers? Actually, quite a bit. Before launching into the particulars of how to go about this I'd like to reinforce the notion of who you, the consumer, is in this curious and crucial role. You're the one "with the gold"; as in the Golden Rule. At least in this version, you're the one who makes the rules. By casting your vote, buying or not, you drive and direct financial markets; including pet-fish ones. Don't ever forget this. You want value for your money? Demand it with your dollars and your feet. Don't purchase things, including life, from places you do not endorse; better still, walk on out of them. Believe me; this is how bad situations are best rectified.

Right Size:

For all species and specimens for you to consider there is a "too small, too large, and right about the right range" of sizes. Think of the wrasses, and know that their family name, Labridae is derived from the Greek "labros", meaning "greedy". When little, they're oh so cute, but many get to be big, some very quickly, often by eating their tankmates. Here's an attractive juvenile Napoleon or humphead wrasse ( Cheilinus undulatus) of about a foot length. Unfortunately it grows into a monster of some 2.5 meters. I remember working for a wholesaler of marines in California in the sixties who complained that the Cuban hogs ( Bodianus pulchellus ) sent to us were too small (under two inches). Sure enough, next shipment they came one to the box at about ¾ of a foot total length. If you had to have a hog in the genus Bodianus , for your reef tank you'd be much better off with a smaller member, such as B. bimaculatus (the two-spot at 9cm max.), or the lyretail ( B. anthioides ). Better still, for reef aquarists who want even safer, more compatible labrids, look to the fairy wrasses ( Cirrhilabrus spp.)( C. jordani ), the smaller "lined" Pseudocheilinus , flashers (genus Paracheilinus )( P. filamentosus ), or for folks who like a real challenge, the leopard wrasses (genus Macropharyngodon )(male M. meleagris ), or the sand-dwelling pencil wrasses of the genus Pseudojuloides . Among others, these stay relatively small, don't hassle invertebrates and are both beautiful and interesting behaviorally.

Puny and big individuals of even the "right" species ship poorly and are much less likely to adapt to aquarium conditions. Juveniles can't go as long without feeding, and this is often a period of days to weeks from collection to the wholesaler that feeds (many don't) or your dealers. Large individuals tend to be "set in their ways" food and behavior-wise; what's more they are much more expensive to ship (Transport is often the single largest cost component of livestock dealing)( Naso lituratus , too small (1 ½"), too big (about a foot), and right in range 3 ½-6").

Location/Source:

Irrespective of where you stand on "the cyanide issue", whether it exists, how deleterious poison use is to the intended catch, the environment, fisherfolk and their communities, there is a direct correlation with "where" your livestock originates and its likelihood of survival and longevity. Certainly other factors are at least as important in contributing to loss of life and vitality; time on hand at collectors, "consolidators/shippers" to and through domestic-based wholesale facilities; lack of feeding in most of this transit; stresses of crowding, poor water quality; long airline hauling times; concurrent chemical and physical insults from same... all add up to the fact that livestock are better/best from closer, and more "controlled" areas. In particular I must still villify the industrys two major country-sources, the Philippine Islands and Indonesia as "B" sources of marines. Yes, there are a growing number of conscientious businesses there, eschewing the use of "economic poisons", but the other factors mentioned (airline delays, long haul times, lack of feeding, "burn" from overcrowding/too small a bag & water...) are still damning.

Look around; there are MANY alternative catch sites, and new ones every year, offering most of the key species at much better net landed prices (when you count in mortality) than Indo. or the P.I.. Even if you don't believe you're implicitly fueling reef destruction, overfishing and continuing impoverishment of indigenous peoples, the bottom line is the bottom line; fishes and invertebrates are better from elsewhere.

Captive bred or latter derived in the way of asexually "reproduced" invertebrates (as in "fragmenting" SPS corals). Are these a better choice than "wild caught" or collected? Most of the times and in most ways, yes. This livestock is better conditioned, or better put (with apologies to Darwin and Wallace) "unnaturally selected", to put up with the vagaries of human confinement. Already accepting of prepared foods and water conditions, "man-made" or to-a-degree cultured stock in general is much hardier than that coming fresh from the reef. In the past, captive bred and reared fishes displayed a comparative loss of color, genetic integrity and vigor opposed to their wild conspecifics. Take a look now! They are much improved.

Obvious Signs of Damage & Disease:

Fish external parasites like ich ( Cryptocaryon irritans ) and velvet ( Amylloodinium ) are easy to spot, either by their spotty/dusty appearance, and/or the concurrent rapid breathing, hiding behavior they induce. Look especially to the organisms eyes, fin origins, and mouth for trouble signs (kole, or yellow eye tang, Ctenochaetus strigosus, with an infected mouth; this fish is more than likely doomed). Red or white sores, swelling of any kind are a warning; the specimen may not be necessarily infected, but its capacity to ward off disease is impugned .

Both eyes should be clear and bright, neither sunken in or bulging and not scratched. Minor scratches from rough handling often solve themselves, but "pop-eye", or sunken eyes may signal internal infection and are serious matters that disqualify a purchase. Depending on the variety of fish in question, torn or frayed fins may not be a big deal; infection is. Pay close attention for signs of infection at their bases. Mouths and gill spines are often damaged in the process of collecting and shipping. Look at enough clean, healthy specimens of the species until you know how these are supposed to appear.

What is a normal, or healthy color for the species, size, sex of individual you're looking for? (a spaced out, too-bright colored majestic angel, E. navarchus ; the three species in this subgenus are commonly collected via cyanide) How about breathing rate and range of gill movement? And the "fullness" of the body. What is the individuals "index of fitness"; the ratio of diameter over length. Is it overly "skinny" above the head? Along the flanks? (an asst. of tangs; yellows, Ctenochaetus , related Zanclus , HI; a thin yellow, & blue, AQ) One way that fishes are different than the more familiar companion animals (like dogs and cats and us) is how such apparent poor physical condition can indicate a doomed individual. It may not be dead yet, but soon will be; little to stop it.

Behavior: What to Look and Look Out For:

In many ways, behavior is the best measure of an organisms vitality. Is the specimen out and about, curious about its surroundings, interacting with its tankmates, responding to your presence? (a behaviorally well-adjusted blue face, E. xanthometopon ; clamped-finned, ataxic juvenile imperator angel; a great P. annularis and good-curious Chaetodonoplus ). It should be. Beware of spaced out, clamped-finned individuals, having "private parties in the corners.

Jumping: I wish I had a penny for every time someone is going to say "El Nino" today, or for the marines that will become "carpet jerky" by launching, crawling, otherwise getting out of their system on a one-way trip to oblivion. Know your livestocks propensity for aquatic Houdiniism and keep your tank covered, or water level low... About the only non-jumpers/escape artists are the seahorses and their kin.

Feeding: Just because the you've located a "correct" species, of the appropriate size and apparent good condition, doesn't mean you should buy it. Is the specimen eating? Foods that you intend to offer? Don't take someones word on this; demand that the stock be fed in your presence; at least once, better twice.

Territoriality and Order of Introduction: Like a redox table of which chemical "species" steals or loses electrons to who, a list can be compiled of the most likely prevailing party in your systems pecking order (an undulated trigger, Balistapus undulatus near the top; a very docile Gobiodon at the bottom). Generally the largest (actual and ultimate) size species/specimen wins; but not always ( ounce for ounce, the true terror of the reef, the domino damsel, Dascyllus trimaculatus ). The dynamics of who goes in, in what order, sex ratios, best numbers of individuals (one, two, a few, many), and habitat partitioning need to be worked out in advance of purchase; best when planning out the size and components of the system itself. (a large Pomacanthus angelfish. P. imperator ; the "king" of its tank). Remember, all marine life is "aggressive" to a degree, and that there is a high degree of variation in temperament within some species.

How Long on Hand:

Just as with size, there is an ideal period of time for new arrivals to be on hand before your acquiring them; not too quick, nor too late; and yes this also varies by species, size, and individual. Allow me an example; thermal shock. Unlike what you may be familiar with as a warm-blooded animal having extensive experience with birds and mammals, fishes and invertebrates often do not show the ultimate sign (i.e. death) from stressors like high/low thermal exposure for a period of days. You and I can't tell from looking at livestock whether it is doomed from such extremes. What to do? Assure that the organisms have been on hand a few days or more before purchase. Yes, there are exceptions, such as the purchase of many types of stinging-celled invertebrates (e.g. several kinds of stony corals, gorgonians), but by and large "Midnight Madness Sales", where you can buy livestock "just arrived/right out of the bag" are a very poor idea.

Likewise there are examples of organisms you don't want to be too long on hand ; tangs, due to the ill-effects of long-term copper medication (where used) exposure; gobies and blennies (the redheaded goby, Gobiosoma puncticulatus ; the Tangaroa goby, Ctenogobiops tangaroai ; the twin-spot or "crab-eye" goby, Signogobius biocellatus ), from starvation; all organisms that seem otherwise healthy but housed/maintained under inadequate conditions where the "costs" of leaving them outweigh bringing them home.

Decent Species/Specimens: What's Left?

So you don't get all bummed out with all this negative talk, there is something more in the way of hardy stock for your reef system than tiny gobies (like Rainford's, Amblygobius rainfordi ) or Ecsenius blennies. There are cardinals (family Apogonidae)( Pteropogon kauderni , the Banggai cardinal), all sorts of other blennioid fishes (like this labrisomid); fusiliers (family Caesionidae)( Caesio striatus , the striated fusilier); some dragonets, family Callionymidae ( Synchiropus morrisoni , one of many "scooter"s); the ever-popular smaller hawkfishes (family Cirrhitidae)(the Falco hawk, Cirrhitichthys falco ); many gobioids like the dartfishes (family Microdesmidae)(the firefish, Nemateleotris magnifica ); the basslets of the family Grammidae (the royal gramma, Gramma loreto ); dozens of smaller, less aggressive wrasses as previously mentioned, tilefishes (family Malacanthidae); the burrowing jawfishes (family Opistognathidae)(the yellow-headed Opistognathus aurifrons ); the pricey roundheads called sea comets or marine bettas ( Calloplesiops altivelis ); some of the smaller angelfishes (the flameback angel, Centropyge aurontonotus off Tobago); the less aggressive damsels and clownfishes (family Pomacentridae)(and a small male maroon clown, Premnas biaculeatus ); dottybacks (family Pseudochromidae)(the diadem basslet, Pseudochromis diadema ); less-gargantuan basses (family Serranidae) like the subfamily anthiinae (a male purple blotch basslet, Pseudanthias pleurotaenia ); and thousands more...

And what about tough live rock, sand, algae, invertebrates? Amongst the best? The stoloniferans like pipe-organ coral ( Tubipora musica ), and star polyps (the green Clavularia sp.); a plethora of tough soft corals ( Sarcophyton, Lobophyton, Lemnalia ), and xeniids ( Anthelia, Xenia spp.); all sorts of the anemone-like zoanthids ( Parazoanthus gracilis ); Coral anemones, Order Corallimorpharia ( Ricordea ); cultured molluscs like the tridacnids how many crustaceans? (a crab and a couple of shrimp; Lysmata amboinensis, Stenopus hispidus ); a myriad of spiny-skinned animals (a seastar, urchin and cuke); ...and much, much more for the advanced hobbyist.

Not Getting Chintzed: The Deposit Game:

So, is there evidence of some widespread conspiracy between collectors, distributors and retailers ( L.A. Wholesalers Allseas and UnderWater World, WetPets, San Diego) to defraud the consumer public by offering improper species, or good ones of improper size or condition? Nope; having been these folks myself all my semi-adult life I can assure you that everyone is doing what they should do; "operating in their own best self-interest", by gathering together whatever they can that WILL SELL. Ofttimes the collectors are non-aquarists, and have little exposure with long-term care of the stocks they harvest; ditto with the slip and slide of company-types betwixt them and retailers. How would they even know what the livestock eats? They don't feed them; and for the most part, they shouldn't. And the retailers' explanation for what they offer? Ask them! Most are "advanced" hobbyists who've been in business than less than two years (the average is about 22 months); they don't know much more than you. Very likely they're offering "what the public is asking for", or "trying out" new species or supplier. What do I suggest might be done to protect and further everyone's interest? A open, clear dialogue amongst all parties and accountability up and down the line; for the consumer "the deposit game".

Don't know if the livestock you have your eye on is quite "ready to go", but you've "got to have it"? Ask for the stores policy on "putting it on hold". Most have a mechanism for this type of "layaway"; and it operates to everyone's advantage. You are assured of the livestocks hardiness by allowing it to "rest up", acclimate and learn to accept a captive diet; the store gains by having a "sold" specimen on display to attract future customers, and leverage with their supplier against "anomalous" loss in the short term. When, where in doubt, but desirous of specimens, put down half and come back later.

Mail Order: Follow the Rules:

Live out in the boondocks? Or willing to take the big risk of DOAs, delayed freight, inclement weather, getting stiffed? One way of getting livestock, better, worse or the same quality is via direct shipment. Should you try this? Maybe. Some stocks are a definite deal by buying direct; live rock and sand especially. Know the species and what you're getting into in all cases, however. I would only try "bringing in your own", if you have the facilities for quarantine, treatment and the volume to justify the freight and other headaches. A not-so-obvious alternative may be to piggy-back your order with a local retailer. If so, be prepared to "share" the "pain" as well as the savings if there are troubles; there frequently are.

A few ground rules for "playing in the sandbox". If you're receiving livestock from a distance, know when it's arriving (leave a wide margin open), and meet the shipment on arrival. The shorter the time the livestock is bagged and boxed, the better. Don't rely on carriers, freight forwarders to keep your shipment in opportune circumstances; like out of the rain, or direct sunlight. Meet the shipment, transport it and put it away properly ASAP (an airline pick-up of livestock).

Payment: the livestock trade is a "cash and carry" industry. Most folks are honest in the pet-fish interest, and will abide by their stated replacement and credit policies for DOAs. But, read and comply with these explicitly. Generally, you must fill out a "complaint form" with the carrier for large losses (as in total losses for missing or obviously damaged boxes); one or a few losses must be called in, usually within 24 hours for any consideration. You may find an instamatic "Polaroid" (tm) image of use when disputing a credit.

Beyond Species & Specimen Collection: Quarantine & Dips:

Perhaps I'm apologetic; no, I'm not, for this possibly superfluous mention of "standard operating procedures" for preventing accidental introduction of undesirable pests and parasites with your intended new livestock. By all means, do isolate your acquisitions for a good two weeks outside their main/display system... or at the very least, employ an appropriate dipping/bath procedure for the type of life en route from your dealer to the intended home. (yellow tang with turbellarian "black spot" disease; easily eliminated through a freshwater dip)

It makes little sense to educate yourself and seek out good specimens, to thwart it all by compulsively stocking new arrivals without preventive measures. Besides, who can tell how "fit" your new livestock really is? A resting period in quarantine often does "newbies" a great deal of good.

Cloze: The Value of Information

"Knowledge is power"; be powerful. Know what you want from the standpoints of its likelihood of doing well in your care, and cast your votes wisely for live material and organisms that as species and individuals have the best chances of thriving in your systems. How can you learn all this? You've already started by caring enough to find out. The internet, books, magazines, hobbyists and hobby groups, retailers/wholesalers/collectors/breeders, and not just "simple" observation, are all viable means toward the ends of enlightenment. In order comes Knowledge, Intelligence, Wisdom, then Love. You want to love your life in terms of appreciating the living world? You must learn it well first.

Bibliography/Further Reading:

Allen, Gerald R. & Roger Steene. 1994. Indo-Pacific Coral Reef Field Guide.378pp. Tropical Reef Research,
Singapore.
Blasiola, George C. 1986. Marine fish compatibility. FAMA 8/86.
Brawer, Marc. 1972. Compatibility. Marine Aquarist 3:1(72) Jan-Feb.
Burgess, Warren E. 1978. Selecting marine fishes. TFH 1/78.
Burgess, Warren E. 1978. The right size fishes. TFH 2/78.
Fenner, Bob. 1989. Successfully selling the popular marines. Pets Supplies Marketing
1/89.
Fenner, Bob. 1989. Selling compatible marine species. Pets Supplies Marketing 10/89.
Fenner, Bob & Cindi Camp. 1990. The most appropriate marine fishes for aquaria; retail
selection, display and maintenance. FAMA 3/90.
Fenner, Robert. 1995. The continuing use of cyanide in the collection of marine fishes.
FAMA 2/95.
Fenner, Robert. 1996. Look but don't touch! Marine catfishes of the family Plotosidae.
TFH 7/96.
Fenner, Robert. 1996. The fishes we call hogfishes. TFH 10/96.
Fenner, Robert. 1998. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Microcosm, VT. 432pp.
Fox, Dale A. 1992. Some notes on selecting marine species. TFH 7/92.
Gosliner, Terence M., Behrens, David W. & Gary C. Williams. 1996. Coral Reef
Animals of the Indo-Pacific. 314pp. Sea Challengers, Monterey, California.
Hemdal, Jay. 1988. Fishes for the home miniature reef. SeaScope v.5, Spring 88.
Hemdal, Jay. 1989. Saltwater fish: Ten great choices. AFM 4/89.
Hunt, Philip. 1998. Six of the best fishes for the reef aquarium. TFH 2/98.
Hunziker, Ramond E. 1986. The marine aquarium made easy. Part 3:Fishes. TFH 12/86.
Maki, Michael. 1992. How-to select a healthy marine fish. FAMA 10/92.
Michael, Scott W. 1990. An aquarists guide to the wrasses of the genus Pseudocheilinus. FAMA 9/90.
Michael, Scott W. 1992. A guide to the leopard wrasses (Genus: Macropharyngodon).
SeaScope v.9, Spring 92.
Michael, Scott W. October 1994 on. Fishes for the marine aquarium. An excellent
monthly series covering selection, care and natural history. Aquarium Fish Magazine.
O'Malley, John. 1989. Choosing saltwater fish. AFM 2/89.
Robertson, Graham C. 1977. A beginner's fishes. Marine Aquarist 8:3 & 4(77).
Schiemer, Gregory. 1997. Wrasses for the reef aquarium. Parts 1 & 2. FAMA 11,12/97.
Tullock, John. 1998. Environmental issues and the marine aquarium hobby. Part Two:
Adaptability of fish to aquarium life. FAMA 2/98.

What do you think of groupers like Miniata in the reef. They need alot of food but other than that I don't see how they can be detrimantal since they don't seem to bother any corals etc same goes for Lionfish???

I know they're delicious to eat and have seen folks keep them in reefs
My advice? Feed sparingly and don't get anything that will fit into the Cephalopholis' mouth
And yes to smaller Scorpaenids in captivity, esp. on the low feeding...

"How can we discourage our local fish stores from carrying some of the "list of shame" animals? Many times they just say" I didn't ever order that!"

#1 don't buy them, #2 tell them,,,, really. and #3 encourage those retailers instead to deal in livestock that lives in captivity...
If they haven't ordered an organism, they should not pay for it, period... they should call their supplier immediately re...

What's your opinion on octopi, obviously not blue-ringed, but the common O. vulgaris for instance?

O. vulgaris is a great, intelligent, but short-lived, super escape artist captive.
For the most part folks should avoid these cephalopods IMHO, they very infrequently live.

Many people say don't get a mandarin unless you have X pounds of live rock to support it -- this is accurate? (i've only heard this word of mouth, not by book)

I do agree with mandarins (and most other Callionymids) in terms of a "rule of thumb" for providing sufficient live food... but there are other ways to make sure they don't starve... refugia, mysid, caprellid grow out chambers..
The psychedelic goby "difference of opinions" are not disputed outside of the U.S., you would do well to have a good four square feet of bottom for each smaller indiv.

What's the syntoms of cyanide poisoning. Are there any type treatment to it ?

Symptomology includes overbright coloration, non-feeding and sudden death on ingestion of foodstuffs... and there are definitive cytological and chemical tests avail...

In reefs with sufficient copepods, are mandarins a good choice? Will they fall victim to aggressive crabs?

Crabs eat most everything and everybody they can get their claws on...
including these slow gobioids... any large crab is suspect... maybe with the exception of smaller "cleaner upper" hermit types...
Mandarins should only be tried in well-established (6mo.s plus) real reef systems...imho,
There are many other similar animals... encourage your dealer to seek these out through the major supply houses in LA, Chicago, NY, Miami...

What is you avice on Jawfish. Are they a good fish for a 30g reef? Or should they be left out of a tank this small. Also what do you feed this fish?

Some of the smaller species are ideal... (there is one that gets to over 2 feet!)... but the most popular w. Atlantic and Opistognathus rosenblatti from the Cortez are great.
They greedily accept all types of fresh and live meaty foods, and most easily train onto prepared foods of all sorts.
For a 30 I'd try 2 individuals, some coarse substrate (be careful they don't undermine any stacked decor)...
My best species for a first shot, O. aurifrons

What do you percieve the future of the marine hobby?

The future overall is bright... and there is one! With many more collecting stations coming on line, better and more airline direct flights....
better handling and shipping techniques.... and many more appropriate species... aquaculture making great strides..
hobbyist and scientific knowledge and dissemination increasing briskly..
Have seen the chg.s in the hobby/biz here in the west parallel chg.s in w. eur and Japan
the chains and "mass merchandising" retailers will subside, the independents (esp. mom and pops) will have their day back.
who knows, many of you may end up in the trade... or already at least be their in the service end..

I've heard proposals of adding glucose to one's reef. Your thoughts on it?

Yes, a very common practice in Europe, and it works
much the same as Glucose and water IV if you've lost consciousness
about a teaspoon per ten gallons, stat on arrival or durring periodic water changes
You can see a brief ref. to the practice in the Wiley and Baensch versions of Allens B/F and angel books
Wholesalers in the know often utilize simple carbohydrates on arrival... but the practice seems rare with retailers and hobbyists here..

You haven't mentioned clams. Can you talk a few mins about how to pick a good clam? Minimum size? Does it vary by type?

Wow, how much time do we have to chat up tridacnids
I want to go on record urging the purchase of only captive produced animals (unless non-tridacnid and un available otherwise)
for my money, no animal under two inches/5 cm. across, with a full mantle, on site for at least two weeks...
Of the species cultured, the size at acquisition doesn't affect my choice that much
if your pocket book will take it, the larger specimens have a correspondingly higher incidence of survivability
have I left out my penchant for Maximas? Some of the new Hippopus colors coming up? A thx to Gerald Heslinga?

What is a 'caprellid grow out chamber'?

Okay for a "plug"? Check out the hang-on units that Kim of CPR came up with after the Seattle meeting.
These acrylic jobbies can be utilized easily without the expense and space requirements of ext. refugia retrofits

Can we treat a cyanide poisoned fish ?

Not really.. and this is one of those things that really bugs me...
cyanides are biocides, they kill life, they are not anesthetics... temporarily and reversibly affecting
the CNS.... cyanide  exposure can be likened onto nuclear accidents... if you get enough dose, you are not  going to "make it"... it is a threshold event, not a successive approximation...hmmm, "did you get a kiss"? can be/is interpreted differently... but you're either pregnant or you're not  cyanide exposure of any concentration and duration is typically deadly... though not immediately

Why do fish jump out? Is it just their "nature"? Is it really the individual fish's attitude?

Hah! Cuz they can?
What's the sound of one fish net hand swishing?

When is a good time to add a Yellow Tang to a new Live Rock reef tank? And what algae does one eat? Brown, red, green, or coraline or all?

There are better species, like the whole genus Ctenochaetus (the combtooth tangs) for algal control
Zebrasoma are actually quite "picky" actually and consume mainly just some filamentous and sheet like greens in quantity..

With the Solomon islands creating sps frags, do you think more islands in the Pacific will follow suit?

Definitely, there are many other suitable areas, with resident pop.s that need the money, and favorable airline service... all a matter of economics 101 and awareness of what can be done..

In your opinion what are the more sucessfull tangs for the reef aquarium

I def. like the Ctenochaetus out of HI, C. hawaiiensis (the Chevron), C. strigosus, (the kole or yellow eye), and C. striatus.. are my faves...

Thanks Bob!