Excerpts of what Bob Fenner didn't get to during his talk can be found at Reef Livestock Selection

When in the course of pet-fish events", the biggie: Livestock. A large part of the fun and excitement of the marine aquarium hobby is the anticipation and "scavenger" (that's you) hunt for your new livestock. The "what" to get and even "how to select" actually should have been decided (as in, nothing's decided till it's done) way in advance of even acquiring the system and its components. Yes, in an ideal world, aquarists would/will know what sort of presentation and/or livestock they intend to house way before actually buying their tanks and support paraphernalia.

What about such issues as; "how big" a system? (Answer: As large as you can afford to maintain. Notice I didn't write "to purchase"; that's a minor matter comparatively). What shape? A heavy bias on more flat, "standard" formats over "show" profiles that are tall and narrow. Lighting? What will your organisms need/take? Substrate? Nitrate removal/reduction considerations? Foods, feeding, nutrition? And oh so much more need to be addressed and answered with confidence.

And as you're cogitating furiously, seeking and discovering what's available, possible and the paths you'll try out matching your "dry-goods" purchases with the "live", what sorts of questions might you, should you explore concerning "what" species you'll place? Beyond these, what criteria can you apply to optimize your chances of securing the best/better specimens of the varieties of livestock you want? Unsurprisingly from the title of this piece, these are my answers.

Marine Livestock Species Selection: Determining "What" then "Which":

There are two issues to be addressed in figuring our what you'll be keeping in your marine system. First, the ideal of what is available and suitable for your particular set-up; secondly how to go about picking out the best of these species.

Discounting the possibility of "The Creature that Ate Brooklyn" deriving from your live sand and rock, the following issues must need be evaluated when considering potential fishes, invertebrates, algae and vascular plants: size (at purchase, growth, and ultimate potential), foods/feeding , compatibility (behavioral characteristics like territoriality) and anomalous losses issues . Even the issues of shipping problems and legal aspects should be of concern. Allow me to expand on these ideas and offer examples.

The Issue of Legality: Legal & Moral Concerns:

Some organisms are restricted in the trade (and others should be) as being considered overly exploited (Above and right Hypsypops rubicunda , the Garibaldi)

or valuable to remove; such as the Hawaiian obligate Cleaner Wrasse , Labroides phthirophagus . All places in the world have their licensing, paperwork and taxes/fees as relates to capture, transport and import of wild stocks.

Bad Species: Poor Capture, Transport, or Adaptability Record:

Mortuus Est:

One outright contraindicated behavior to avoid in livestock selection is death itself; some species, for whatever unknown reasons, don't generally live through the rigors of collection, holding and shipping. Both a "clean" list of desirable species and a "dirty" list of those to avoid run very long; an ongoing compilation is available on the net at www.exec.com/~jkos/amda some pleasing examples are:

some of the Butterflyfishes when caught and shipped large, like the Saddleback, Chaetodon ephippium , and the Teardrop, Chaetodon unimaculata, here in the Cook Islands.

Others rarely live any length of time regardless of size;

And let's not forget the non-vertebrates; how long have you ever seen a Flame Scallop (actually a File Shell , Lima scabra ), stay alive in captivity?

Does the Species Eat Captive Foods ?:

Other not-usually eating examples of fishes commonly offered in the aquarium trade include the aforementioned Moorish Idol and Pinnatus Batfish, Platax pinnatus...

Some whole groups of invertebrates like Nudibranchs (here the Spanish shawl, Flabellinopsis iodinea )...

And too many more common retail offerings are in league with these poor and specialized feeders. Collectors, wholesalers, retailers should avoid them, but rarely do.

Chilly Willy:

Toxic Life:

Though personally, I do wish the trade would stop carrying the Blue-Ringed Octopus ( Haplochalaena maculosa and others) and the species of Cone Snails ( Conus ) that are deadly venomous to unwary and unaware humans.

Selecting Good Specimens:

After determining which species of what's available are compatible and desirable, what can you do to insure you're getting the "pick of the litter" in choosing through them at your dealers? Actually, quite a bit. Before launching into the particulars of how to go about this I'd like to reinforce the notion of who you, the consumer, is in this curious and crucial role. You're the one "with the gold"; as in the Golden Rule. At least in this version, you're the one who makes the rules. By casting your vote, buying or not, you drive and direct financial markets; including pet-fish ones. Don't ever forget this. You want value for your money? Demand it with your dollars and your feet. Don't purchase things, including life, from places you do not endorse; better still, walk on out of them. Believe me; this is how bad situations are best rectified.

Right Size: Mainly Wrasse Examples

For all species and specimens for you to consider there is a "too small, too large, and right about the right range" of sizes. Think of the Wrasses, and know that their family name, Labridae is derived from the Greek "labros", meaning "greedy". When little, they're oh so cute, but many get to be big, some very quickly, often by eating their tankmates. Here's an attractive juvenile Napoleon or Humphead Wrasse ( Cheilinus undulatus)( 1) of about a foot length. Unfortunately it grows into a monster of some 2.5 meters.

I remember working for a wholesaler of marines in California in the sixties who complained that the Cuban Hogs ( Bodianus pulchellus ) sent to us were too small (under two inches). Sure enough, next shipment they came one to the box at about * of a foot total length.

Or for folks who like a real challenge, the Leopard Wrasses (genus Macropharyngodon )(shown male M. meleagris , the Guinea Fowl Leopard Wrasse), or the sand-dwelling Pencil Wrasses of the genus Pseudojuloides .(shown is a male P. cerasinus) . Among others, these stay relatively small, don't hassle invertebrates and are both beautiful and interesting behaviorally.

Too puny and too big individuals of even the "right" species ship poorly and are much less likely to adapt to aquarium conditions. Juveniles can't go as long without feeding, and this is often a period of days to weeks from collection to the wholesaler that feeds (many don't) or your dealers. Large individuals tend to be "set in their ways" food and behavior-wise; what's more they are much more expensive to ship (Transport is often the single largest cost component of livestock dealing)

Location/Source:

Irrespective of where you stand on "the cyanide issue", whether it exists, how deleterious poison use is to the intended catch, the environment, fisher-folk and their communities, there is a direct correlation with "where" your livestock originates and its likelihood of survival and longevity. Certainly other factors are at least as important in contributing to loss of life and vitality; time on hand at collectors, "consolidators/shippers" to and through domestic-based wholesale facilities; lack of feeding in most of this transit; stresses of crowding, poor water quality; long airline hauling times; concurrent chemical and physical insults from same... all add up to the fact that livestock are better/best from closer, and more "controlled" areas. In particular I must still generally  vilify the industry's two major country-sources, the Philippine Islands and Indonesia as "B" sources of marines. Yes, there are a growing number of conscientious businesses there, eschewing the use of "economic poisons", but the other factors mentioned (airline delays, long haul times, lack of feeding, "burn" from overcrowding/too small a bag & water...) are still damning.

Captive bred or latter derived in the way of asexually "reproduced" invertebrates (as in "fragmenting" SPS corals). Are these a better choice than "wild caught" or collected? Most of the times and in most ways, yes. This livestock is better conditioned, or better put (with apologies to Darwin and Wallace) "unnaturally selected", to put up with the vagaries of human confinement. Already accepting of prepared foods and water conditions, "man-made" or to-a-degree cultured stock in general is much hardier than that coming fresh from the reef. In the past, captive bred and reared fishes displayed a comparative loss of color, genetic integrity and vigor opposed to their wild conspecifics. Take a look now! They are much improved. 

Obvious Signs of Damage & Disease:

Fish external parasites like Ich ( Cryptocaryon irritans ) and Velvet ( Amylloodinium ) are easy to spot, either by their spotty/dusty appearance, and/or the concurrent rapid breathing, hiding behavior they induce. Look especially to the organisms eyes, fin origins, and mouth for trouble signs ( a Kole, or Yellow-Eye Tang, Ctenochaetus strigosus, with an infected mouth; this fish is more than likely doomed). Red or white sores, swelling of any kind are a warning; the specimen may not be necessarily infected, but its capacity to ward off disease is impugned .

Both eyes should be clear and bright, neither sunken in or bulging and not scratched. Minor scratches from rough handling often solve themselves, but "pop-eye" (exophthalmia) , or sunken eyes may signal internal infection and are serious matters that should disqualify a purchase. Depending on the variety of fish in question, torn or frayed fins may not be a big deal; infection is. Pay close attention for signs of infection at their bases. Mouths and gill spines are often damaged in the process of collecting and shipping. Look at enough clean, healthy specimens of the species until you know how these are supposed to appear. (extreme HLLE on a Koran Angelfish, Pomacanthus semicirculatus , unilateral exophthalmia (pop-eye) on a Chromileptis altivelis ).

What is a normal, or healthy color for the species, size, sex of individual you're looking for? (pictured: a spaced out, too-bright colored Majestic Angel, Pomacanthus euxiphipops navarchus ; the three species in this subgenus of Pomacanthus are commonly collected via cyanide)

How about breathing rate and range of gill movement? And the "fullness" of the body. What is the individuals "index of fitness"; the ratio of diameter over length. Is it overly "skinny", especially above the head? Along the flanks? ( a thin & stout Yellow Tail Blue, Paracanthurus hepatus ). You want well-fleshed specimens.

    One way that fishes are different than the more familiar companion animals (like dogs and cats and us) is how such apparent poor physical condition can indicate a doomed individual. It may not be dead yet, but soon will be; little to stop it.

Behavior: What to Look and Look Out For:

Jumping:

I wish I had a penny for every time someone is going to say "El Nino" today, or for the marines that will become "carpet jerky" by launching, crawling, otherwise getting out of their system on a one-way trip to oblivion. Know your livestocks' propensity for aquatic Houdiniism and keep your tank covered, or water level low... About the only non-jumpers/escape artists are the Seahorses and their kin . ( the Seahorse, Hippocampus kuda ; and a Yellow-Striped Pipefish, Corythoichthys flavofasciatus ). Really, just a note here to keep your tank covered against such losses... fishes and motile invertebrates.

Feeding:

Just because the you've located a "correct" species, of the appropriate size and apparent good condition, doesn't mean you should buy it. Is the specimen eating? Foods that you intend to offer? Don't take someones word on this; demand that the stock be fed in your presence; at least once, better twice.

Territoriality and Order of Introduction:

Like a redox table displaying which chemical "species" steals or loses electrons to which, a list can be compiled of the most likely prevailing party in your systems pecking order (an Undulated Trigger, Balistapus undulatus near the top; a very docile Gobiodon would be near the bottom).

Generally the largest (actual and ultimate) size species/specimen wins; but not always (ounce for ounce, the true terror of the reef, the Domino Damsel, Dascyllus trimaculatus ). The dynamics of who goes in, in what order, sex ratios, best numbers of individuals (one, two, a few, many), and habitat partitioning need to be worked out in advance of purchase; best when planning out the size and components of the system itself. ( a large Imperator Angelfish. Pomacanthus imperator ; the "king" of its tank).

    Remember, all marine life is "aggressive" to a degree, and that there is a high degree of variation in temperament within some species.

How Long on Hand:

Just as with size, there is an ideal period of time for new arrivals to be on hand before your acquiring them; not too quick, nor too late; and yes this also varies by species, size, and individual. Allow me an example; thermal shock. Unlike what you may be familiar with as a warm-blooded animal having extensive experience with birds and mammals, fishes and invertebrates often do not show the ultimate sign (i.e. death) from stressors like high/low thermal exposure for a period of days. You and I can't tell from looking at livestock whether it is doomed from such extremes. What to do? Assure that the organisms have been on hand a few days or more before purchase. Yes, there are exceptions, such as the purchase of many types of stinging-celled invertebrates (e.g. several kinds of stony corals, gorgonians), but by and large "Midnight Madness Sales", where you can buy livestock "just arrived/right out of the bag" are a very poor idea.

Likewise there are examples of organisms you don't want to be too long on hand ; tangs, due to the ill-effects of long-term copper medication (where used) exposure; gobies and blennies ( the Redheaded Goby, Gobiosoma puncticulatus ; the Tangaroa Goby, Ctenogobiops tangaroai ; the Twin-Spot or "Crab-Eye" Goby, Signogobius biocellatus ), from starvation; all organisms that seem otherwise healthy but housed/maintained under inadequate conditions where the "costs" of leaving them outweigh bringing them home.

Decent Species/Specimens for Reefs?: What's Left?

So you don't get all bummed out with all this negative talk, there is something more in the way of hardy stock for your reef system than tiny gobies (like Rainford's, Amblygobius rainfordi ) or Ecsenius Blennies. There are Cardinals (family Apogonidae) (like Pteropogon kauderni , the Banggai cardinal), 

all sorts of other blennioid fishes (like this labrisomid); Fusiliers (family Caesionidae)( Caesio suevicus , the Suez Fusilier); some Dragonets, family Callionymidae ( Synchiropus ocellatus , one of many "Scooter"s); 

the ever-popular smaller Hawkfishes (family Cirrhitidae) (e.g. the Falco hawk, Cirrhitichthys falco ); many Gobioids like the Dartfishes (family Microdesmidae) (e.g. the Firefish, Nemateleotris magnifica ); the Basslets of the family Grammidae (e.g. the Royal Gramma, Gramma loreto );

 dozens of smaller, less aggressive Wrasses as previously mentioned,  the burrowing Jawfishes (family Opistognathidae)(e.g. the Yellow-Headed Opistognathus aurifrons ); the pricey Roundheads called Sea Comets or Marine Bettas (e.g. Calloplesiops altivelis ); some of the smaller Angelfishes (the Flameback Angel, Centropyge aurontonotus );

the less aggressive Damsels and Clownfishes ( family Pomacentridae )(e.g. the Village Belle, Chrysiptera taupou , a pair of Maroon Clowns, Premnas biaculeatus ); Dottybacks (family Pseudochromidae)( the Diadem Basslet, Pseudochromis diadema ); less-gargantuan true Basses (family Serranidae) like the subfamily Anthiinae ( a male purple blotch basslet, Pseudanthias pleurotaenia ); and thousands more...

 a myriad of spiny-skinned animals (an Archaster Seastar, urchin and cuke); ...and much, much more for the advanced hobbyist.

Not Getting Chintzed: The Deposit Game:

So, is there evidence of some widespread conspiracy between collectors, distributors and retailers (images: L.A. Wholesalers Allseas and UnderWater World, WetPets, San Diego) to defraud the consumer public by offering improper species, or good ones of improper size or condition? Nope; having been these folks myself all my semi-adult life I can assure you that everyone is doing what they should do; "operating in their own best self-interest", by gathering together whatever they can that WILL SELL .          

    Ofttimes the collectors are non-aquarists, and have little exposure with long-term care of the stocks they harvest; ditto with the slip and slide of company-types betwixt them and retailers. How would they even know what the livestock eats? They don't feed them; and for the most part, they shouldn't. And the retailers' explanation for what they offer? Ask them! Most are "advanced" hobbyists who've been in business than less than two years (the average is about 22 months); they don't know much more than you. Very likely they're offering "what the public is asking for", or "trying out" new species or supplier. What do I suggest might be done to protect and further everyone's interest? A open, clear dialogue amongst all parties and accountability up and down the line; for the consumer "the deposit game".

Don't know if the livestock you have your eye on is quite "ready to go", but you've "got to have it"? Ask for the stores policy on "putting it on hold". Most have a mechanism for this type of "layaway"; and it operates to everyone's advantage. You are assured of the livestocks hardiness by allowing it to "rest up", acclimate and learn to accept a captive diet; the store gains by having a "sold" specimen on display to attract future customers, and leverage with their supplier against "anomalous" loss in the short term. When, where in doubt, but desirous of specimens, put down half and come back later.

Mail Order: Follow the Rules:

Live out in the boondocks? Or willing to take the big risk of DOAs, delayed freight, inclement weather, getting stiffed? One way of getting livestock, better, worse or the same quality is via direct shipment. Should you try this? Maybe. Some stocks are a definite deal by buying direct; live rock and sand especially. Know the species and what you're getting into in all cases, however. I would only try "bringing in your own", if you have the facilities for quarantine, treatment and the volume to justify the freight and other headaches. A not-so-obvious alternative may be to piggy-back your order with a local retailer. If so, be prepared to "share" the "pain" as well as the savings if there are troubles; there frequently are.

A few ground rules for "playing in the sandbox". If you're receiving livestock from a distance, know when it's arriving (leave a wide margin open), and meet the shipment on arrival. The shorter the time the livestock is bagged and boxed, the better. Don't rely on carriers, freight forwarders to keep your shipment in opportune circumstances; like out of the rain, or direct sunlight. Meet the shipment, transport it and put it away properly ASAP (image: an airline pick-up of livestock).

Payment: the livestock trade is a "cash and carry" industry. Most folks are honest in the pet-fish interest, and will abide by their stated replacement and credit policies for DOAs. But, read and comply with these explicitly. Generally, you must fill out a "complaint form" with the carrier for large losses (as in total losses for missing or obviously damaged boxes); one or a few losses must be called in, usually within 24 hours for any consideration. You may find an instamatic "Polaroid" (tm) image of use when disputing a credit.

Beyond Species & Specimen Collection: Quarantine & Dips:

Perhaps I'm apologetic; no, I'm not, for this possibly superfluous mention of "standard operating procedures" for preventing accidental introduction of undesirable pests and parasites with your intended new livestock. By all means, do isolate your acquisitions for a good two weeks outside their main/display system... or at the very least, employ an appropriate dipping/bath procedure for the type of life en route from your dealer to the intended home. (here: Yellow Tang with turbellarian "black spot" disease; easily eliminated through a freshwater dip). (The host and Paravortex causative mechanism on a mount below)

It makes little sense to educate yourself and seek out good specimens, to thwart it all by compulsively stocking new arrivals without preventive measures. Besides, who can tell how "fit" your new livestock really is? A resting period in quarantine often does "newbies" a great deal of good.

Cloze: The Value of Information

"Knowledge is power"; be powerful. Know what you want from the standpoints of its likelihood of doing well in your care, and cast your votes wisely for live material and organisms that as species and individuals have the best chances of thriving in your systems. How can you learn all this? You've already started by caring enough to find out. The internet, books, magazines, hobbyists and hobby groups, retailers/wholesalers/collectors/breeders, and not just "simple" observation, are all viable means toward the ends of enlightenment. In order comes Knowledge, Intelligence, Wisdom, then Love. You want to love your life in terms of appreciating the living world? You must learn it well first. 

Question and answer session

Is it true that most captive breed fish lack the colors of wild caught?

Actually, not anymore is about the best general answer... The Clownfishes and Gobiosoma and even tridacnids are better than the wild! They're not only better looking IMO, but definitely more hardy.

Why do you consider the leopard wrasses difficult to keep?

The genus Macropharyngodon have a dismal survival history (historically more than ninety some percent die within two weeks of capture) Not necessarily the "fault" of the aquarist, but these fishes take an absolute beating in capture, handling and shipping.

Where can one buy the "captive made Gobiosoma" in the states?

There are a few sources in the west (FLA) like Jeff Turners/ORA and Bill Addison and Dave Palmer at C-Quest... and Tropical Marine Centre in the UK. As consumers/end users, you need to goose your suppliers in turn into goosing their suppliers... these fishes (more than one species) are available most all year long.

Bob, why are wild caught clownfishes, namely Chrysopterus so hard to acclimate. Ive heard lots of stories of death prevalent w/ wild caught clownfishes.

Could be a few things going here... but basically this is a matter of not enough "closed loop" generations of this species... having been gone through and the fact that it is a species of narrow(er) environmental tolerance... Wait a few more generations/years and they will be as "plastic" as freshwater angelfishes

It has been said that Mandarin are not a good choice for a smaller tank (Nano) because they enjoy copepods. I have also heard of many getting theirs to eat brine and such. Is this fish recommended if special attention can be given to assure it is eating? Copepods are present, however possibly not in the numbers to sustain the fish on their own.

I agree... most callionymid species (Psychedelic Gobies/Mandarins/Dragonets) don't do well in any but the most established reef type set-ups with plenty of interstitial fauna and not too many competitors... I wish (as in If wishes were fishes we'd all have full tanks) that some writers would emphasize the need for a minimum of square footage for these species

I was wanting to get some Banggai Cardinals, how hard is it to get a mated pair? Should i buy 6 or 8 of them to let them pair off?

A mated pair? Hmm, actually not that hard to "make" such... best to buy a handful of small individuals and raise them up... chances are very good, that given adequate food, space, lack of competition, "noise"... that you'll end up with a dominant male and young.

I thought maroon clown were considered aggressive?

In general I agree with this statement. Premnas can be terrors... best to start off with very small (one inch or so) individuals and let them "grow up together" if you're looking for "pairing"... and not stock the larger individuals (almost all females) from the wild... and to pay attention to "order of introduction" of your other fish livestock... and place this clownfish species about last

What is chintzed?

Hmm, a term related to "being cheated"... by someone in a transaction

Ive heard theres its better for a 3-4 week quarentine time for fish, you recamend 2, does it really matter?

Two's about the best all around time frame... much longer does no good (particularly if the organisms are being coppered" and the animal's really do suffer from long periods of time in such confines as most folks have facilites for quarantine....a matter of no added benefit and possibly a detriment from extension

Which fish are more likely to be captive-bred?

I have listed them in this brief article: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/MarLvSel.htm and have related articles and links to these groups, their producers, even means... listed on the site

Some people recommend treating wild caught fish immediately upon arrival in a quarantine tank, even if no signs of illness are present. Is this a good idea?

In general no... It's important for a shop, wholesaler to develop a SOP for receiving different types of livestock

Thanks for the great talk Bob!

Bibliography/Further Reading:

Allen, Gerald R. & Roger Steene. 1994. Indo-Pacific Coral Reef Field Guide.378pp. Tropical Reef Research, Singapore.

Blasiola, George C. 1986. Marine fish compatibility. FAMA 8/86.

Brawer, Marc. 1972. Compatibility. Marine Aquarist 3:1(72) Jan-Feb.

Burgess, Warren E. 1978. Selecting marine fishes. TFH 1/78.

Burgess, Warren E. 1978. The right size fishes. TFH 2/78.

Fenner, Bob. 1989. Successfully selling the popular marines. Pets Supplies Marketing 1/89.

Fenner, Bob. 1989. Selling compatible marine species. Pets Supplies Marketing 10/89.

Fenner, Bob & Cindi Camp. 1990. The most appropriate marine fishes for aquaria; retail selection, display and maintenance. FAMA 3/90.

Fenner, Robert. 1995. The continuing use of cyanide in the collection of marine fishes.FAMA 2/95.

Fenner, Robert. 1996. Look but don't touch! Marine catfishes of the family Plotosidae. TFH 7/96.

Fenner, Robert. 1996. The fishes we call hogfishes. TFH 10/96.

Fenner, Robert. 1998. The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Microcosm, VT. 432pp.

Fox, Dale A. 1992. Some notes on selecting marine species. TFH 7/92.

Gosliner, Terence M., Behrens, David W. & Gary C. Williams. 1996. Coral Reef Animals of the Indo-Pacific. 314pp. Sea Challengers, Monterey, California.

Hemdal, Jay. 1988. Fishes for the home miniature reef. SeaScope v.5, Spring 88.

Hemdal, Jay. 1989. Saltwater fish: Ten great choices. AFM 4/89.

Hunt, Philip. 1998. Six of the best fishes for the reef aquarium. TFH 2/98.

Hunziker, Ramond E. 1986. The marine aquarium made easy. Part 3:Fishes. TFH 12/86.

Maki, Michael. 1992. How-to select a healthy marine fish. FAMA 10/92.

Michael, Scott W. 1990. An aquarists guide to the wrasses of the genus Pseudocheilinus. FAMA 9/90.

Michael, Scott W. 1992. A guide to the leopard wrasses (Genus: Macropharyngodon).SeaScope v.9, Spring 92.

Michael, Scott W. October 1994 on. Fishes for the marine aquarium. An excellent monthly series covering selection, care and natural history. Aquarium Fish Magazine.

O'Malley, John. 1989. Choosing saltwater fish. AFM 2/89.

Robertson, Graham C. 1977. A beginner's fishes. Marine Aquarist 8:3 & 4(77).

Schiemer, Gregory. 1997. Wrasses for the reef aquarium. Parts 1 & 2. FAMA 11,12/97.

Tullock, John. 1998. Environmental issues and the marine aquarium hobby. Part Two: Adaptability of fish to aquarium life. FAMA 2/98